Key stats:
For those looking for solitude
11.56 miles, 2811 feet ascent
Elapsed time: 4hrs 15 mins, Moving time: 3hrs 58mins,
Summits: Pen-Y-Castell, Drum,
Hazards: No unusually large threats other than the usual navigation in bad weather/mist/device failure. Lots of options for getting off the mountains relatively quickly and safely.
Walk description:
Here at Conwy Walk and Run we thrive on doing the lesser walked routes. I like the mountains for the peace, not for the queuing! As a result it is rare to find us on Snowdon or the Glyderau and instead seek out the less walked but equally challenging mountains like Nantlle Ridge, Hebog, Yr Aran and beyond. With this in mind, this week's walk starting a very short drive (or bus) from Conwy in Rowen is one of the quietest walks in Snowdonia going up the little trodden Pen-Y-Castell. A great walk for those looking for some peace and quiet and beautiful North Wales views. This walk starts in Rowen which is well worth exploring in it's own right - a chocolate box village with a quaint pub with a great beer garden next to the stream. Pen-y-Castell is a distinctive craggy summit visible for miles round, yet rarely included on walking routes - it was time to investigate.
The route starts uphill along a road for several kilometres, whilst I usually avoid road walking at all costs, this is actually great there is no through traffic (or cars generally) as it turns into farm track, it's also enshrouded in trees providing shelter from the sun as you climb uphill. This route slowly leads you uphill, with a few short cuts across some rural fields, it eventually turns into a grassy track heading unerringly uphill. Beautiful views down the Conwy valley and across to the high Carneddau are prevalent throughout (see below).
This track continues upwards higher and higher until approx 550m where we made a beeline for the craggy summit of Pen-y-Castell. We definitely didn't choose the most efficient route onto the summit (if following the GPX), but we got there! You are greeted with stunning views down the Conwy valley and across the high Carneddau from this knobbly lump.
At this point we had yet to encounter a single person - perfect! Pretty impressive given it was a fine Saturday in September! From here there is a short steep descent before a longish (initially steep) drag up the summit of the Drum. It was up here we saw the first person of the day and we stopped for lunch hiding from a chilly Northerly wind coming over the top of the mountain. There is a summit shelter but we found a nice ditch to hide in before we reached that point. Over the top of the Drum we were greeted by the glorious wild ponies of the Careneddau and spectacular views across to Anglesey and even as far as the Isle of Mann (only faintly).
After a short summit traverse across to Carnedd y Ddelw with views across the sea we then began the short but sweet descent down to the old Roman Road. Admittedly, we did encounter a handful of people as we descended down the track towards Rowen before turning down to re-join the road we initially climbed. Still very quiet by any measure!
All in all, whilst not being a particularly technical hike, there were still stunning views, wild Carneddau ponies, and nearly 3000ft of climbing - by no means an easy walk. For those looking for some peace and solitude though, this walk is serene with barely a soul in sight. Much of the climb and descent is on good tracks making for a relatively quick hike given the distance/ascent stats.
From Rowen to the hills; an allegory of your life